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• #FLOATING FOUNDATION DECK INSTALL#

#FLOATING FOUNDATION DECK INSTALL#

The rim joist(s) are the last pieces for you to install on the frame which you attach to the end of the beams using deck screws. (also, you might not actually be able to build your deck so close to your fence so make sure to check your local by-laws before doing this) If it’s going to be open on both sides you can install 2 rim joists. This might not be necessary for you depending on where you are installing your deck. Instead we had to use special joist hangers called Concealed-Flange Joist Hangers. Chris and I try to get into a rhythm where I measure and make the cuts and he installs.īecause we built our deck close to our fence we didn’t have a lot of space to install one of our rim joists along the end of the beams. It’s great if you can split that tasks with a partner. I find that cutting and installing the joists is the most time consuming part of the whole deck building process. Your joists will not all be the same length so go one at a time and measure carefully! Use a mitre saw to cut all your joists and install into the hangers. Make sure all your joists will be flush with your beams. To make installing your joist hangers a bit easier cut a small scrap of 2×6 and use it to figure out the placement of your hangers. Mark the placement of all of your joists – in our area we need 16″ between. Use joist hangers to keep the deck at ground level The beams rest on top of the post and are attached with hurricane ties and special screws. Once all the posts are cut and in place it’s time to install the beams. We used landscape staples and leftover gravel to help hold the cloth in place. This will prevent weeds from growing up through your deck. This is totally optional but if you have a lot of grass still under your deck you might want to put down a layer of landscape material. Make sure ALL the posts are level with each other (across the width and length of the deck). Working from your selected corner cut 4×4 posts to sit in the footings and hold the beams level. In this corner our deck block was positioned so that the 2×6 beam could sit right in the footing almost at ground level. Pick one corner as your starting point and decide how high you want the top of your deck to be.įor us, we chose the southeast corner which is our highest point.

Once all your footings are in place (and level) it’s time to add your beams.

Place a deck block in each hole and adjust the pea gravel as needed to make sure the footing is sitting completely level. Once you’ve dug your holes fill the bottom with a small amount of pea gravel and compress with a tamper (or by dropping one of the deck blocks a couple of times). Depending on the how rolly-polly your backyard is you may have to dig some a bit deeper to keep the deck low to the ground. Our footings were placed equally within our 10′ x 12′ rectangle and we allowed for a 12″ overhang along the edge where our rim joist would be installed.įor each footing dig down about 3-4 inches keeping the sides of your hole as straight as possible. Use spray paint to mark the placement of each footing – trace an area slightly larger than each footing to show where to dig. Never build a deck before? I’ve also put together some of deck building tips from when we built our big deck! 10 – 14′ 2 x 6 Brown Pressure Treated Wood (for joists).4 – 10′ 2 x 6 Brown Pressure Treated Wood (for beams).Obviously these instructions can be adjusted if you want to build a deck that’s a different size! The materials and measurements listed are for the size we built. You may be required to use different measurements than what we’ve used (space between joists for example) or you may be required to get a permit. Make sure before you build your deck you check with your local municipality. I hope you find this helpful and don’t forget to show me pics of your finished deck! In case you’re thinking of building your own floating deck I’ve put together all the details on how we did it.